Oase - biOrb biOrb CLASSIC 60 MCR black

Changing the filter is easy. Reach into your biOrb and turn the bubble tube a quarter turn to release it. Then simply lift out the entire filter cartridge. Another quarter turn removes the filter which contains all the waste. Twist on a new filter. Place back into your biOrb, switch the pump on and you’re done.

You should leave the biOrb running for at least 24 hours before adding your first fish as this allows the water to stabilize. If you are using tap water always use the de-chlorinator provided.

You should not add another fish for at least 28 days unless you are closely monitoring the ammonia level (high ammonia build up can kill fish). Ammonia test kits only cost a few pounds and are a worthwhile buy. Once matured the bacteria will convert the ammonia to less harmful substances. You can dilute the ammonia with 1/3 water changes if it does get high, if you are unsure of what level it is at or if you have added more than one fish.

Immediate cloudiness can be a result of insufficient cleaning of the ceramic media; if so it will eventually settle out. Wiping the inside of the bowl with your fingertips will also help. Cloudiness and smelliness, especially over a short period of time, indicates overfeeding or the use of the wrong type of food.

The brown tint that builds up in aquarium water over time is a concentration of dyes from fish food and organic waste from fish. How quickly this tint builds up is directly related to what you put in the biOrb. If it happens quickly after setting up the biOrb, consult the ‘how much should I feed my fish’ FAQ above.

If after a month or so you notice a tint, do a water change and change the filter cartridge. If you notice that the water goes brown quickly after maintenance ensure that when you remove the water you use a siphon. Sucking out the dirt after removing the filter cartridge prevents any solid waste being left in the biOrb, which quickly discolours water. Agitating the stones before siphoning will also help to loosen any trapped dirt.

A small amount of algae growth is a sign of a healthy aquarium and not something to worry about. We say this because harmful chemicals such as ammonia are metabolised into a less harmful substance such as nitrate, which actually feed algae. Where there is excessive algae growth, a number of parameters could be accelerating it. These are outside parameters such as light and heat and inside parameters such as high nitrate/phosphate levels.

High nitrates and phosphates are a direct result of either overfeeding or a lack of maintenance. It is important to carry out regular filter changes and partial water changes. It is not necessary to empty the biOrb and start again, just increase the maintenance for a while and follow these tips:

Make sure the biOrb is away from any sources of heat.

Make sure it is in a dark area (even non-direct sunlight can be strong enough to accelerate algae growth).

Reduce feeding/ stocking levels.

Clean any algae away with a cleaning cloth.

Change/clean the filter more regularly. Leave a maximum of one month between changes until problem subsides.

Use a siphon pump/tube to remove any solid waste. Sucking out dirt after removing the filter cartridge prevents any solid waste being left in the biOrb that could cause nitrates. Agitating the stones before siphoning will also help to loosen any trapped dirt.

When carrying out water changes, take out more than 1/3rd of the water to dilute the nitrates but do not exceed 2/3rds. Try to ensure the new water is of a similar temperature to minimise stress. Use chemicals provided with service kits when doing water changes.

Some chemicals are available to reduce nitrates and phosphates and may help. However, they are no substitute for taking more care with feeding and regular maintenance.

If you’ve noticed that the rate of bubbles has decreased compared to when you first got your biOrb, you’ll need to change the air stone. This is normal for all aquariums, air stones simply become blocked over time by calcification, especially in hard water areas. They’re cheap and changing them regularly will help to prolong the life of the air pump and improve filter performance. To change the air stone remove the filter cartridge as if you were doing a filter change. You should now be able to see a small white cylinder about 20mm high where the bubbles come out; gently pull up on it to remove the air stone and replace with a new one. Be careful not to push down to hard on the stone as it may become damaged.

Changing the filter is important as it becomes blocked over time and reduces in efficiency. As a result, the waste it has collected starts to break down and rot, releasing toxins. Regularly changing the filter removes this waste. It is also easier and more effective to siphon water and dirt out whilst the filter is also out. Siphoning dirt from the lowest point ensures the maximum amount of waste is removed. The sponge can be cleaned under a tap as they provide mechanical filtration only. This however does not recharge the chemicals in the cartridge.

All aquariums should be kept out of sunlight. There are three main reasons why;

Direct or strong daylight will cause excessive algae growth.

Direct or strong daylight will cause excessive temperature fluctuations in the aquarium.

All round fish bowls, both glass and acrylic have a magnifying effect. Whilst this adds to the appeal of them, one down side is that if placed in direct sunlight they produce a focal point of light that can scorch/burn materials and possibly cause fire.

The ceramic media provides important biological filtration so removing it may be detrimental to the fish. If you add finer material like gravel, you may find it becomes blocked, preventing the filter from working effectively. If this does happen switch to a coarser gravel and/or siphon clean the gravel more regularly.

There are two main causes of fish death in new aquariums: overfeeding and over-stocking. A new aquarium has no bacteria to cope with the biological load produced by fish and food so the ammonia level rises very quickly and toxic levels build up. If you think you have overfed or overstocked your aquarium you can lower the level of the toxins by diluting the water with fresh water and carrying out maintenance to remove solid waste. In a mature aquarium, bacteria will consume most of the toxins but it takes around 28 days (with fish in the aquarium) to start the maturing process. This is why we recommend only one fish for the first month. Your fish is most vulnerable during this period as the water can look very clear but still be very toxic.

Always remove dead fish immediately. Fish can die naturally but more often than not something has caused it to die. Examine the fish for outward signs of disease and have a sample of the water tested for ammonia, nitrate and pH, as something may be about to affect your other fish. It is usually pragmatic to ask yourself if everything is all right in the aquarium; am I overfeeding? has waste been allowed to build up in the aquarium or am I doing enough maintenance?

Whilst all coldwater fish are suitable for the biOrb, size should be a consideration. We recommend that the smaller the fish the better, and that you use some of the more hardy varieties such as white cloud minnows that do very well in a cold-water biOrb set-up. Always remember more fish equal more maintenance.

Yes. All biOrb’s can be set up as a tropical aquarium simply by adding a standard aquarium heater. A 50-watt heater should provide plenty of heat.

Try to use as few chemicals as possible. Excessive additives and chemicals will not help the condition of your biOrb. Choose a set of chemicals to do a job and stick with them; do not mix additives from different companies to do the same job as they may react adversely together. Think before using chemicals and additives: do they do the same job? Can they be used together? You only need to use a de-chlorinator to remove chlorine if you are using tap water etc.